1993 Yamaha Virago 535 Repair Manual
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Basic maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the amateur mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete. Fastening systems Fasteners, basically, are nuts, bolts and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type (either a lock washer, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive).
All threaded fasteners should be clean, straight, have undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones.
Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating oil to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it 'work' for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled out and removed with a special tool called an E-Zout (or screw extractor).
Most dealer service departments and motorcycle repair shops can perform this task, as well as others (such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out). Flat washers and lock washers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Always use a flat washer between a lock washer and any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.
Special locknuts can only be used once or twice before they lose their locking ability and must be replaced. Tightening sequences and procedures When threaded fasteners are tightened, they are often tightened to a specific torque value (torque is basically a twisting force). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while under-tighteningcan cause it to eventually come loose. Each bolt, depending on the material it's made of, the diameter of its shank and the material it is threaded into, has a specific torque value, which is noted in the Specifications. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. Fasteners laid out in a pattern (i.e. Cylinder head bolts, engine case bolts, etc.) must be loosened or tightened in a sequence to avoid warping the component.
Initially, the bolts/nuts should go on finger tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a crisscross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one tightened and tighten them all one half turn, following the same pattern.
Finally, tighten each of them one quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners the procedure would be reversed. Disassembly sequence Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly during reassembly.
Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Take note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way (such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft). It's a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a. Clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal.
When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mixups later. If nuts and bolts can't be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. Engine case bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.).
A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts (such as the carburetors and the valve train). The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it's a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected. Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any motorcycle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between components and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly.
Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. In most cases, the part can be loosened by striking it with a soft-facedhammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part.
Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart components, as they can easily mar the gasket Sealing surfaces of the parts (which must remain smooth). If prying is absolutely necessary, use a piece of wood, but keep in mind that extra clean-upwill be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with a gasket remover (available in aerosol cans) to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end.
Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying(or semi-drying)gasket sealer is best. Hose removal tips Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions.
Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off (silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot).
Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it.
Also, do not reuse hoses that are cracked, split or torn. Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair a motorcycle. For the owner who has few tools, if any, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of routine maintenance and repair, it is a wise one. To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul and Special.
The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be built into the Repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselferwill assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use. Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box end and open end combined in one wrench); while more expensive than open-endedones, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. Combination wrench set (6 mm to 22 mm) Adjustable wrench -8in Spark plug socket (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Standard screwdriver (5/16 in x 6 in) Phillips screwdriver (No.
2x6 in) Allen (hex) wrench set (4 mm to 12 mm) Combination (slip-joint)pliers - 6 in Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Control cable pressure luber Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Hand impact screwdriver and bits Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Drain pan Work light with extension cord Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are intended to supplement those in the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility (especially when various extensions and drives are available). We recommend the 3/8 inch drive over the 1/2 inch drive for general motorcycle maintenance and repair (ideally, the mechanic would have a 3/8 inch drive set and a 1/2 inch drive set). Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension - 6 in Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball pein hammer - 8 oz Soft-facedhammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4 in x 6 in) Standard screwdriver (stubby - 5/16 in) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3x8 in) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No.
2) Pliers - locking Pliers - lineman's Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring(internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2 in Scriber Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Center punch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16 in) Steel rule/straightedge - 12 in Pin-typespanner wrench A selection of files Wire brush (large) Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8 inch (and a set of good quality drill bits). Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used. Frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them.
A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends (i.e. Members of a motorcycle club). This list primarily contains tools and instruments widely available to the public, as well as some special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. As a result, references to the manufacturer's special tools are occasionally included in the text of this manual.
Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool can't be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or a motorcycle repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring removal and installation tool Piston pin puller Telescoping gauges Micrometers) and/or dial/Vernier calipers Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder compression gauge Dial indicator set Multimeter Adjustable spanner Manometer or vacuum gauge set Small air compressor with blow gun and tire chuck Buying tools For the do-it-yourselferwho is just starting to get involved in motorcycle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory.
If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices (and they often come with a tool box). As additional tools are needed, add-onsets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection.
Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores and motorcycle dealers will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones (especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets) because they won't last very long.There are plenty of tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.
It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use, there is a book entitled Motorcycle Workshop Practice Manual (Book no. 1454) available from the publishers of this manual. It also provides an introduction to basic workshop practice which will be of interest to a home mechanic working on any type of motorcycle. Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect.
Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc.
1993 Yamaha Virago 535 Specs
Must be carefully stored where they can't be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, tools will wear out if used frequently.
When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it; subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do. Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside (it is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof). A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches.
As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. Which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, simply pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or service station. Plastic jugs are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available.
Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the motorcycle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface (such as the fuel tank) cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Safety first Professional mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk.
A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe simple precautions. There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following is not a comprehensive list of all dangers; it is intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safe approach to all work you carry out on your bike. Essential DOs andDON'Ts DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral.
DON'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system - cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you.
DON'T grasp any part of the engine or exhaust system without first ascertaining that it is cool enough not to burn you. DON'T allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact the machine's paint work or plastic components. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale dust - it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos heading).
DON'T allow any spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up right away, before someone slips on it. DON'T use ill fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. DON'T rush to finish a job or take unverified short cuts. DON'T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DON'T inflate a tire to a pressure above the recommended maximum. Apart from over stressing the carcase and wheel rim, in extreme cases the tire may blow off forcibly.
DO ensure that the machine is supported securely at all times. This is especially important when the machine is blocked up to aid wheel or fork removal. DO take care when attempting to loosen a stubborn nut or bolt. It is generally better to pull on a wrench, rather than push, so that if you slip, you fall away from the machine rather than onto it.
1993 Yamaha Virago 535 Repair Manual
DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs -'itwill protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery.
Note that long-termcontact with used engine oil can be a health hazard. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, ties etc. And long hair) well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
DO remove rings, wristwatch etc., before working on the vehicleespecially the electrical system. DO keep your work area tidy - it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around.
DO exercise caution when compressing springs for removal or installation. Ensure that the tension is applied and released in a controlled manner, using suitable tools which preclude the possibility of the spring escaping violently. DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others.
If in doubt on any point, get professional advice. 0-17 IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.
Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing and other products - such as brake pads, clutch linings, gaskets, etc. contain asbestos.
Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos. Fire Remember at all times that gasoline (petrol) is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit,by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline (petrol) vapor, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Never use gasoline (petrol) as a cleaning solvent.
Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust.
It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water. Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline (petrol) vapor comes into this category, as do the vapors from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonous vapors.
Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. The battery Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems (except where noted). If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source.
Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up, cleaning or carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles or a face shield.
If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water; never add the water to the acid. Electricity When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc., always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded (earthed). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor. Also ensure that the appliances meet national safety standards.
A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the electrical' system, such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is used, the secondary (HT) voltage is much higher and could prove fatal. A number of chemicals and lubricants are available for use in motorcycle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl. Contact point/spark plug cleaner is a solvent used to clean oily film and dirt from points, grime from electrical connectors and oil deposits from spark plugs. It is oil free and leaves no residue. It can also be used to remove gum and varnish from carburetor jets and other orifices.
Carburetor cleaner is similar to contact point/spark plug cleaner but it usually has a stronger solvent and may leave a slight oily reside. It is not recommended for cleaning electrical components or connections.
Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease or brake fluid from brake system components (where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary and petroleum-basedsolvents cannot be used); it also leaves no residue. Silicone-based lubricants are used to protect rubber parts such as hoses and grommets, and are used as lubricants for hinges and locks. Multi-purpose grease is an all purpose lubricant used wherever grease is more practical than a liquid lubricant such as oil. Some multipurpose grease is colored white and specially formulated to be more resistant to water than ordinary grease.
Gear oil (sometimes called gear lube) is a specially designed oil used in transmissions and final drive units, a s well as other areas where high friction, high temperature lubrication is required. It is available in a number of viscosities (weights) for various applications. Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant specially formulated for use in the engine. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) of from 5 to 80.
The recommended weight of the oil depends on the seasonal temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions; heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosityoils are designed to have Characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20to 20W-50.
Gas (petrol) additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings. Brake fluid is a specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt.
Chain lubricants are formulated especially for use on motorcycle final drive chains. A good chain lube should adhere well and have good penetrating qualities to be effective as a lubricant inside the chain and on the side plates, pins and rollers.
Most chain lubes are either the foaming type or quick drying type and are usually marketed as sprays. Degreasers are heavy duty solvents used to remove grease and grime that may accumulate on engine and frame components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed with either water or solvent. Solvents are used alone or in combination with degreasers to clean parts and assemblies during repair and overhaul. The home mechanic should use only solvents that are non-flammableand that do not produce irritating fumes. Gasket sealing compounds may be used in conjunction with gaskets, to improve their sealing capabilities, or alone, to seal metal- to-metaljoints. Many gasket sealers can withstand extreme heat, some are impervious to gasoline and lubricants, while others are capable of filling and sealing large cavities.
Depending on the intended use, gasket sealers either dry hard or stay relatively soft and pliable. They are usually applied by hand, with a brush, or are sprayed on the gasket sealing surfaces.
Thread cement is an adhesive locking compound that prevents threaded fasteners from loosening because of vibration. It is available in a variety of types for different applications. Moisture dispersants are usually sprays that can be used to dry out electrical components such as the fuse block and wiring connectors.
Some types can also be used as treatment for rubber and as a lubricant for hinges, cables and locks. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older-vehicles.In recent years, many non-waxpolishes (that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones) have been introduced. These non-waxpolishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.
Hi, Shawn if you ask 10 different riders and you will get 10 different answers. All oil is certified by the Oil Gods to perform under specific conditions for specific applications and any oil is better than no oil and if you're in a bind diesel oil works just fine. If your engine is air cooled never run automotive oil because normal motorcycle cylinder head temperatures run much hotter than water-cooled cylinder heads, make sure the oil is designed for motorcycles. Your owners manual recommends a specific type of oil that is designed to lubricate the engine parts to withstand the normal driving conditions the motorcycle was intended to be used for end of story. Now for an analogy, your cars owners manual recommends using 87 octane fuel to power your engine for maximum performance and it does a wonderful job in achieving that goal. But you say 92 octane is better because it has a higher number and is more expensive, well guess what your car will not run any better and there are no long or short term benefits from running a higher octane fuel bottom line your car doesn't need it.
Same thing with oil sure they make lubricants that can withstand the temperature of molten lava which you would need if you were planning to drive into an active volcano, don't waste your time and money on snake oil just use what your bike needs and your manufacturer recommends and nothing more. The oil weight grade is for ambient temperatures you expect to drive in between oil changes 20w50 covers 80% of all driving temperature conditions if your looking for a better oil that works in all temperature conditions, buy a Synthetic in the same grade from a reputable oil manufacturer I personally recommend AMSOIL just because they were the pioneers in synthetics and their load test numbers for wear put them in a class all by themselves and you can go longer and further in between oil changes. It's a little hard to find in stores but easily available online otherwise Harley Syn 3 is my second choice. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Service manual not owners.
6 Answers SOURCE: On the top and bottom parts of the triple tree either both or one will have bolts. First take the fender off. Take the front tire off. Loosen the bolts on the triple tree.
They should slide down. If not you have to get a rubber mallet and tap on the top of the fork and twist the fork as you are doing this. Once it is out, pull the dust seal off the top of the lower fork. There will be a clip inside, take the clip off drain the oil out of the top or bottom depending on how the forks are made.
Push the fork tube down into the lower fork slightly, pull both apart with a firm tug and they should separate. Posted on Sep 21, 2009. 1978 Answers SOURCE: Everyone has a problem with the bolt. You need to use a 6 point socket or you strip the head. The problem is the previous oil changer overtightened it. It only needs to snugged up enough not to leak.You can buy an aftermarket replacement bolt for around ten dollars. The problem is it comes with a seventeen millimeter head, with a bigger head comes a bigger wrench and the problem amplified.
Once when I was really desperate, I carefully cut the head of the bolt in half down to the oil cup and squeezed the two halves of the head together, releaving enough tension on the cup to turn out the old filter bolt. Posted on Sep 17, 2010. Hi, Vasileios for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $18 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below.
Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Jun 27, 2018. It is very typical (and intensely annoying) that when you transition from accelerating — however slightly — to decelerating — however slightly — there is a big bounce as if there is enormous slop in the drive train. Every motorcyle I have ever had (Kawasaki 175 2-stroke, Honda CB350 twin, Yamaha 650 twin, Yamaha 750 special and Suzuki GS 850), and every motorcycle I have ever driven (Honda CB 50, Yamaha Mini-Enduro 60, Honda Hawk 400, Kawasaki 750 LTD, Yamaha Virago 650, Yamaha Virago 750) has had this “feature.” Jun 23, 2010.
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